INDIAN FASHION ON A GLOBAL STAGE
India has been the land of rich textiles and exemplary artistry which is evident in its exquisite garments. Hollywood for long, have featured Indian designs in their movies as being loud. International recognition pervaded Indian designers for quite long. With globalization and having access to various resources at the tap of a finger, a well-travelled and well-heeled designer has become more aware to help make their reach widespread.
Designers like Ritu Beri, Rohit Bal and Hement Sagar, before them have showcased their work internationally giving the International buyer glimpses of what Indian designers can offer them and also appealing to their western aesthetics and silhouettes. Some of the Indian designers who have made a mark on the international runways and also boast international clientele are designers like Manish Arora, Shane and Falguni Peacock, Naeem Khan and Bibhu Mohapatra.
Manish Arora is the only Indian designer, who has been a fixture at the Paris Fashion Week, since the last 10 years. He is a “mad genius” whose design aesthetics is wild with a burst of vibrant colours that have traditional Indian embroidery, applique and beading with Western silhouettes. Arora’s style does not adhere to conformism. His women are strong, not afraid to enjoy themselves and the clothes are an extension of their personality. This is the very reason that has appealed him to the west.
Apart from making waves on the runways, his designs are donned by International celebrities like Katy Perry, who wore the Carousel dress from his Spring/ Summer 2009 collection for the MTV European Music Awards in June 2009. Nicki Minaj donned his creation for the American Music Awards in 2010; to name a few.
Manish Arora, is also a member of the distinguished French federation, Chambre Syndicale du Prêt à Porter des Couturiers. Arora was also the Creative Director for the French fashion house Paco Rabanne, however he gave up this position in May 2012, to concentrate on his own brand.
Paris Fashion Week – Fall 2018 collection by Manish Arora is inspired by a state of Zen.
The Lotus in the Indian philosophy is a symbol of Purity, Spontaneity and Divine Beauty.
Paris Fashion Week – Spring Summer 2015 collection by Manish Arora is inspired by Goddes Kali and other Indian deities.
Models sported huge red bindis and sindoor.
Paris Fashion Week – Spring Summer 2013 collection by Manish Arora Indian inspiration.
It featured Indian motifs and ethnic embroidery.
Katy Perry donning the Carousel Dress by Manish Arora at the MTV European Music Awards in June 2009
Source image: https://strandofsilk.com/indian-fashion-blog/stylish-thoughts/hollywood-celebrities-going-gaga-over-indian-designers
Nicki Minaj in a Manish Arora for the American Music Awards in 2010.
Source Image: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/284712007666059733/
Source image: http://www.indulgexpress.com/fashion/trends/2017/jun/23/the-peacock-culture-from-artifical-intelligence-to-athleisure-2399.html
The husband and wife duo of Falguni and Shane Peacock, have not only showcased their designs on international runways but have also dressed up international celebrities like Fergie, Kerry Washington, Lady Gaga and Beyonce. Apart from running a successful fashion house in India, they also cater to an international clientele and also have international stores. Their design aesthetics are edgy, sexy and classy at the same time along with having elements of eclecticism. Their work also has a lot of beads, sequins and feathers. They have showcased their work at New York Fashion week.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York – Fall 2012 collection by Falguni and Shane Peacock.
The collection was inspired by the theme “Darkness”. It focuses on black pops of white and some incorporated coloured prints mixed with the dark colours. The complex and sophisticated embroidery and sequins made the collection stand out.
Image Source: https://in.pinterest.com/pin/147000375307038430/?lp=true
Actress Kerry Washington donned a Falguni and Shane Peacock for the Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon from their Spring 2015 New York Fashion Week.
Source Image: http://www.redcarpet-fashionawards.com/2015/05/08/kerry-washington-in-falguni-and-shane-peacock-the-tonight-show-starring-jimmy-fallon/
Singer Fergie donning feathers and sequined dress by Falguni and Shan Peacock for the American Music Awards in 2010
Source Image: https://www.popsugar.com/fashion/photo-gallery/22389806/image/22390829/Feathers-sequins-were-main-theme-Fergie-2010-American
Jennifer Lopez, in a Falguni and Shane Peacock, for her performance at the Billboard 2014 Music Awards in Las Vegas.
Source Image: https://www.femina.in/gossip/celeb-buzz/jlo-stuns-in-falguni-shane-2622.html
Beyonce, in a Falguni and Shane Peacock, Wearable Art Gala 2018 In Nubian Warrior Queen Avatar
Source Image: https://www.myfashionvilla.com/2018/03/20/exclusive-beyonce-at-wearableartgala-2018-in-nubian-warrior-queen-avatar/
Naeem Khan’s learning ground and his knowledge of textiles stems from his father and grandfather who designed intricate clothing worn by Indian royal families. He went to do his apprenticeship for American designer Halston. The two colliding worlds of traditional what he grew up watching and learning back home, to the modern silhouettes of the west, molded him to create his own distinct style of clean, elegant and timeless pieces.
His collections have been worn by the Former First Lady, Michelle Obama, Actress Emily Blunt and Jennifer Lopez to name a few.
Naeem Khan Bridal Spring 2017
Inspiration was “Cultures of the world”
Image Source: https://www.insideweddings.com/inspiration/photo/44731/wedding-dresses2/new-mexico-by-naeem-khan/
Spring Summer 2016 Ready to Wear
Inspiration Frida Kahlo
Image Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/naeem-khan/slideshow/collection#25
Former First Lady Michelle Obama in a Naeem Khan gown, at the 46th annual Phoenix Awards Dinner in 2016.
Image Source: https://www.instyle.com/fashion/michelle-obama-gold-dress-phoenix-awards-dinner
Emily Blunt in a Naeem Khan at a movie premier.
Image Source: https://cristinahh.wordpress.com/2012/03/06/emily-blunt-in-naeem-khan-salmon-fishing-in-the-yemen-premiere-los-angeles/
Image Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bibhu_Mohapatra
Bibu Mohapatra is an Indian Fashion Designer based in New York and is currently making waves with his modern with a bit of traditional touch aesthetics. He graduated from Fashion Institute of Technology, New York in 2009. Post his graduation he was hired by the iconic French furrier J. Mendel.
Mohapatra gave up his position at J. Mendel to work on his own label. He custom designed couture evening gowns, cocktail dresses and furs for a select group of private clients in New York, Europe and India.
Source: https://www.telegraphindia.com/1160501/jsp/graphiti/story_82713.jsp /
He came into prominence when former First Lady Michelle Obama wore his creation for her India visit.
Spring 2018 Collection for New York Fashion Week
Inspiration from art and life in traditional Eastern Asia
Image Source: https://tomandlorenzo.com/2017/09/bibhu-mohapatra-spring-2018-collection-nyfw-new-york-fashion-week/bibhu-mohapatra-spring-2018-collection-runway-nyfw-new-york-fashion-week-tom-lorenzo-site-2/
Fall 2016 Ready to Wear Inspiration Empress Dowager Cixi, a divisive figure in Chinese history
Image Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/bibhu-mohapatra
Jennifer Lopez in a Bibhu Mohapatra at March of Dimes celebration.
Image Source: https://www.ndtv.com/offbeat/mrs-obama-apart-bibhu-mohapatra-is-a-favourite-with-other-celebrities-too-733415
Former First Lady Michelle Obama in a Bibhu Mohapatra creation during her India Visit.
Image Source: https://www.highheelconfidential.com/michelle-obama-wears-bibhu-mohapatra-arrives-india/
These are just the tip of the ice berg of what India has to offer to the world. Talented designers recognizing the richness of our culture are incorporating the same in their collections, thus creating pieces that have global appeal and yet retains its Indian aesthetics. With advancement in technology which is only further adding to the cause of making it available to the people in far corners of the world.
Submission by Manisha Fernandes
Course: Fashion Business Management May 2018 Batch